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817-900-8324Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and many Kenmore dryers share the same control platform, so they use the same fault codes — and several are simple, do-it-yourself fixes. Here’s what each code means, what to try first, and when to call a technician.
| Code | What it means | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| AF | Restricted airflow (clogged lint/vent) | Clean the lint screen and clear the vent hose |
| PF | Power failure mid-cycle | Press and hold Start to clear |
| L2 | Low line voltage (no heat) | Check the double breaker hasn’t half-tripped |
| F22 / E1 / E2 | Exhaust thermistor (temp sensor) fault | Usually needs service |
| F01 | Main control-board failure | Hard-reset; may need a new control board |
Codes vary by model — check your manual if yours isn’t listed.
The dryer detects poor airflow. Try first: clean the lint screen and clear the vent hose behind the dryer and at the wall. This is the most common — and most important — one to fix.
The dryer tumbles but won’t heat because it’s only getting half its 240V. Try first: check the breaker box — one half of the dryer’s double breaker has likely tripped; flip it fully off and on.
The power was interrupted mid-cycle. Try first: just press and hold Start to clear and resume.
The exhaust thermistor (temperature sensor) has failed. This one needs a technician to test and replace.
One safety note: a clogged lint screen or vent is the #1 cause of dryer error codes — and a real fire risk. Clearing it often fixes the code outright; see our maintenance guide for how.
Most dryer codes come down to a clogged vent or an inexpensive part (a thermal fuse, thermistor, or heating element) — repairing is almost always cheaper than replacing. If a code won’t clear, we repair Whirlpool, Maytag and Amana dryers (and every major brand) across DFW, usually same-day. Not sure yours is worth fixing? See our dryer repair-or-replace guide.
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