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817-900-8324GE dishwashers show a “C” code (or, on models without a display, a flashing Clean light) when something’s wrong. Many are quick fixes you can do yourself. Here’s what each GE dishwasher code means, what to try first, and when to call a technician.
| Code | What it means | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| C1 | Drain took too long (one cycle) | Clear the drain path and the air gap by the faucet |
| C2 | Total drain time exceeded | Clear the drain hose; check the pump |
| C4 | Refilled after a power loss (float stuck) | Check the float and clear debris in the sump |
| C7 | Temperature / turbidity-sensor fault | Hard-reset at the breaker; may need service |
| FF | Control-board fault (all lights flashing) | Hard-reset at the breaker 1–5 min; service if it persists |
| Clean light blinking | Blink-pattern code (no display) | Count the blinks to identify the code |
On models without a display, count the Clean-light blinks (e.g. 1 blink = C1). Codes vary by model.
The dishwasher is taking too long to drain. Try first: clear the drain hose, clean the filter, and check the air gap by the sink for debris. Still stuck? See dishwasher not draining.
The dishwasher refilled twice, usually from a stuck float switch. Try first: check the float (front of the tub) moves freely and clear any debris in the sump.
A temperature or turbidity sensor problem. Try first: hard-reset by cutting power at the breaker for a few minutes. Returns? The sensor likely needs service.
All lights flashing points to a control-board fault. Try first: a full breaker reset (1–5 minutes). If it comes back, the control board needs a technician.
Most dishwasher error codes come down to a clogged filter, a kinked hose, or an inexpensive part — repairing is almost always cheaper than replacing. If a code won’t clear, we repair GE dishwashers (and Hotpoint) (and every major brand) across DFW, usually same-day. Not sure yours is worth fixing? See our dishwasher repair-or-replace guide.
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